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More from the journal

The walled garden and pool at AtholPlace Hotel in Sandton, Johannesburg, shot in the early evening

Lodge Review

AtholPlace Hotel and Villa in Sandton, Johannesburg: our review

We spent a night at AtholPlace Hotel and Villa in Sandton, and it turned out to be a far better start to a safari trip than we expected.

Sian Loehrer

An African wild dog running through shallow water, ears up, focused on the chase

Conservation

The plight of the African wild dog

Around 6,600 painted dogs are left in the wild, and they are among the most endangered carnivores on the continent. Here is what is actually happening to them, and what we do about it

Vikki Jackson

Guests at a bush drinks stop in the Kapama Private Game Reserve at golden hour, drinks in hand with open savannah behind them

Lodge Review

Kapama Karula: our review of the Greater Kruger's flagship lodge

Kapama Karula is the flagship lodge in the Kapama Private Game Reserve, positioned on the Klaserie River with its own airstrip, 12 villas, and serious Big Five game viewing.

Sian Loehrer

Two women on a Cape Winelands estate terrace at golden hour, Drakenstein mountains behind, white wine, fresh figs and cheese on a weathered oak table

LGBTQ+ Travel

Choosing a gay-friendly travel agent in South Africa

We plan LGBTQ+-friendly trips across South Africa, from Cape Town to the Winelands and beyond.

Sian Loehrer

Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge exterior patio with pool in the Sabi Sand

Lodge Review

Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge: our review

Our honest take on Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, the architecturally remarkable, art-filled camp buried in a Sabi Sand hillside.

Sian Loehrer

Two lionesses walking down a sand road at first light with a game viewer following behind

Stories

The smell of the bush at 5am

Why we still get up before dawn after twenty years in the bush. The case for the early game drive, written from the back of a Land Cruiser at five in the morning.

Vikki Jackson

Madikwe Safari Lodge is set on a ridge above the open plains of Madikwe Game Reserve, North West Province

Lodge Review

Madikwe Safari Lodge: our review

We spent time at Madikwe Safari Lodge in South Africa's malaria-free Madikwe Game Reserve. Here is what the lodge does well, who it suits, and why the conservation story matters.

Sian Loehrer

A qualified guide and tracker scanning the bush from an open game drive vehicle in South Africa, mid-morning light over dry savannah

Safari Planning

How safe is an African safari?

African safaris are safer than most people assume. Here is what to actually pay attention to.

Vikki Jackson

Rovos Rail luxury train moving through golden South African countryside with a dramatic mountain backdrop

Rovos Rail

Rovos Rail: an honest look at South Africa's luxury train

We've spent time aboard Rovos Rail. Here's our honest take on the cabins, the routes, the food, and whether it's worth the price.

Vikki Jackson

Kosher drinks and snacks on a game drive

Guides

Kosher safaris in South Africa: how a bush kitchen actually works

The honest guide to keeping kosher on safari in South Africa. Three tiers of catering, real pricing, Shabbat in the bush, and how we put one together.

Vikki Jackson

Boat in Mozambique, blue ocean

Guides

When to go to Mozambique: a month-by-month read on weather, water and wildlife

A month-by-month read on Mozambique weather, water and wildlife. Whale sharks, humpbacks, mantas, cyclones, dry season.

Sian Loehrer

Aerial view of Mont Rochelle hotel and vineyards in the Franschhoek valley with mountain backdrop

Lodge Review

Mont Rochelle Hotel & Mountain Vineyard: our review

We spent a few days at Mont Rochelle in Franschhoek. Here's an honest account of the rooms, food, wine, and what makes this Richard Branson property worth the detour.

Sian Loehrer

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Prefer to write to us directly? sian@marulahill.com · WhatsApp +27 82 459 0648