Guides

Botswana has water again. Here is what that means for your safari.

Botswana is having a stronger water year. Here is what that changes, and why the right lodge and the right week still matter more than a brochure month.

Two mokoros in a channel in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

Botswana is having a stronger water year. Here is what that changes, and why the right lodge and the right week still matter more than a brochure month.

The Okavango is carrying more water this year.

Channels that have been quiet are moving again. Floodplains are holding water further into the season. In the right parts of the Delta, it looks much more like the Botswana people picture when they first imagine a mokoro: reeds, open water, a bird calling somewhere behind you, and nothing much to do for an hour or two.

But this is not a simple story about a good year.

Water in the Okavango does not arrive everywhere at once. It falls as rain in the Angolan highlands, travels south over months, and then works its way through a Delta so flat that a few kilometres can make a meaningful difference. The Panhandle sees the flood first. Further south and east, it can take months for the same water to arrive.

That is why we are careful with Botswana.

One lodge can have enough water for boating, while another, not especially far away, is still a predominantly game-drive safari. A lodge that worked well for a water-focused trip in July may be less right in May. Or September. Or in a season when the flood arrives differently.

The brochure month is useful. It is not the whole answer.

Why this year is different

This has been a stronger water year in the Okavango.

Channels are holding more water. Floodplains are wider. In some places, water activities are possible earlier or for longer than in an average year.

That gives us more options. It does not give us permission to be lazy about them.

High water can make a safari feel more varied. You might leave the lodge by mokoro one morning, take a boat across a lagoon in the afternoon, and spend the following day in a vehicle looking for a leopard. It changes the shape of the place. Elephants cross channels rather than dry plains. Red lechwe stand in shallow water. Islands feel more separate. The distances between things become part of the experience.

It can also change access. Some roads become slower or impassable. Game drives need to work around water rather than through it. A lodge with a reputation for excellent land-based wildlife can remain exactly that, but the routes and the shape of the day may look different.

More water is not automatically better. It is better if water is what you came for.

Elephants moving through shallow floodwater in the Okavango Delta.

High water changes wildlife movement, the routes guides take, and how a day on safari unfolds.

Choosing the right month

The right month depends on what you mean by “the Delta”.

For clients who want the Delta to feel genuinely aquatic, we usually start with May through August. Water generally spreads through the system over the dry season, but the exact timing depends on the year and, more importantly, where in the Delta you are staying.

May and June

May and June can be a very good answer for travellers who want cooler days and a balance between vehicle-based safari and water activities.

In a stronger year, some areas begin offering boating or mokoro excursions earlier. But this is the point where lodge choice matters most. One lodge may be properly water-based. Another may still be waiting.

July and August

July and August are usually the safest months for the classic high-water Okavango experience.

Water levels are often at their highest. The mornings can be cold enough for an extra layer. The surrounding bush has dried down, and the contrast between water and sand feels especially dramatic.

They are also peak-season months. The best lodges book early and prices are where you would expect them to be.

September

September can be one of Botswana’s most rewarding months, though the weather asks more of you than July does.

Temperatures rise sharply. The water is generally starting to ease. Animals concentrate around the remaining permanent water, and game viewing can be excellent.

It is a strong choice for someone who wants serious wildlife viewing. It is less dependable for someone whose non-negotiable is long, quiet time on a mokoro.

November to March

From November, Botswana turns green.

There are young animals, dramatic skies, excellent birding and, often, better value. For the right traveller, it can be a brilliant time to go.

But it is not the classic high-water Delta. Local summer rain does not create the same experience as the floodwater that has travelled down from Angola. Anyone booking Botswana primarily for boat safaris should not assume that the green season means a water safari.

Open-sided game-drive vehicle parked on dry grassland at dusk in Botswana.

The right month depends on whether the focus is water time, land-based wildlife viewing, or a balance of the two.

The right Botswana is rarely one lodge

A water lodge and a land lodge are two different kinds of holiday.

For some travellers, the best Botswana trip this year will be a few nights somewhere the channels are the point, followed by a drier concession where the game driving is uncomplicated and the wildlife is close.

For others, especially families or first-time safari guests, we may prioritise good all-round game viewing and treat water activities as a welcome extra rather than build the whole trip around them.

This is the work that happens before anyone gets on a small aircraft.

We look at your dates, where the water is likely to be, how long you want to stay out on a vehicle, whether you would rather glide through reeds than follow a lion track, and whether you are happy for the plan to change slightly with the season.

Then we choose lodges accordingly.

Botswana is having a bigger water year. The right answer is still the one that suits the way you want to travel.

Light aircraft parked on the apron at a Botswana airstrip.
A light aircraft on the apron, before the hop in to the Delta.

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