Voices

A conversation with Vikki Jackson

Vikki Jackson, co-founder of Marula Hill, on moving to South Africa with her family in 1994 and being the one who stayed, why hyenas are the ones to watch, and the small details that make a lodge actually work.

Vikki Jackson, co-founder of Marula Hill safari travel

The thing about hyenas is they are smarter than you. Most people who go on safari are quietly hoping for a leopard moment, or maybe a cheetah on a kill, and instead they get a hyena and feel mildly disappointed. Vikki finds this very funny. She'll tell you, at some length, why the hyena is the one to watch.

We sat down with our other co-founder to talk about moving to South Africa with her family at the end of 1994 and never quite getting round to leaving, what makes a good safari brief from a guest, and why she has strong opinions about cushions.

Vikki, you moved out from the UK at the end of 1994 with the whole family. How did that happen?

It wasn't a holiday and it wasn't a midlife crisis. It was a proper move. Pack the house, get on a plane, start over. The four of us came out together at the end of '94 and built a life here.

The interesting bit is what happened next. One by one, the rest of the family ended up back in the UK. I'm the one who stayed. I commute now, which is a strange word for it, but it's accurate. I keep a foot in both places. South Africa is home in the way that matters. The UK is family.

I get asked sometimes whether I regret it. I don't. Anyone who has stood on a Lowveld road at five in the morning watching the sun come up over an acacia and felt the air do that thing it does will understand why.

You and Sian are very different planners. How would you describe the difference?

Sian is the architect. She'll think about flow and pacing and the emotional arc of a trip. She'll know that day four should be quieter so day five can land properly. She's very good at this. It's why people who travel with us feel held.

I am the operator. I am the one who notices the connection in Joburg has changed by twenty minutes, that the new lodge manager at camp two is meant to be wonderful but the menu has gone slightly off, that the guide we wanted in Sabi Sand is on leave that week and we need a different one. Someone has to read the email at midnight. That's me.

You said you have opinions about cushions.

Strong ones. The number of lodges that are otherwise excellent and then put a stiff scatter cushion on a wing-back chair, or use a fabric that's basically furniture upholstery on a sofa you're meant to flop into after a six-hour game drive. We notice. The good lodges get the textiles right. There are about four people in southern Africa I trust on this and one of them isn't even a designer. She's a guide's wife who used to run a guesthouse.

It sounds trivial. It isn't. The lodges that get the small things right are the ones that get the big things right. There's a correlation.

What's a question travellers should ask but don't?

How many other guests are at the camp. People assume luxury equals private. It doesn't always. There are very expensive lodges with thirty rooms and there are smaller, less famous places with eight rooms and a much better feel. Ask the question. We'll tell you.

The other one nobody asks. What's the road like. Some of the best camps in Africa are at the end of a four-hour transfer on a track that will rearrange your spinal column. If you're seventy-five and have a bad back, this is information you want before, not during.

You always recommend the hyena. Why.

Because they survive. Because they are loyal to their family in a way most cats aren't. Because they're matriarchal. Because they have a laugh like a five-year-old who's been told a rude joke. Because everyone at the lodge is staring at the leopard and missing the clan of hyenas working the riverbed in the half-dark, doing something far more interesting.

Lions get the marketing budget. Hyenas do the work.

What kind of brief from a guest makes your day?

Specific is good. Specific and slightly weird is better. We had a couple last year who wanted four nights in a place where they could read books and not see another vehicle, and four nights somewhere their adult son could fish. We could do that. The trips that don't quite fit the brochure are the trips we like.

We also get a lot of guests who say "we want it to be like that one Conde Nast article." We can talk about that too, but usually we end up somewhere different and better. The famous places are famous for a reason. They're also booked twelve months out and full of other people who read the same article.

What are you watching this season?

The water levels in the Linyanti. The rebuild at one of the Kruger lodges that we had off our list for a year and may be putting back on. A new chef at a place I won't name yet because the food was fine in March and could be excellent by June. Two guides we've been trying to book for the right family.

I also keep half an eye on what's happening at the airports, which is unglamorous but matters. The transit at Joburg has improved. Maun is fine. Nairobi has a new wing. These things move trips up or down our list.

What do you want every guest to come home with?

A story they tell at a dinner party that doesn't sound like a brochure. Something they noticed that wasn't on any itinerary. The smell of the bush at five in the morning. A photograph that's slightly out of focus because the light moved before they could think.

Also, ideally, a piece of advice they will give to a friend that includes our name. We're a small business. Word of mouth is how we grow.

Vikki is the person who makes sure the trip actually works. The flights connect. The lodges remember the dietary note from the original email. The guide is the right one. She is also the person who'll tell you, six minutes into a first call, that you should be looking at Zambia instead of Tanzania this year because the camps you'd actually like are in South Luangwa.

If you've got a trip in your head and you don't know where to begin, that's the call worth making.

Read next

If this resonated

The bush has been expecting you

Start with a conversation. We will ask what makes you want to wake up at four-thirty, and build from there.

Begin a conversation

More from us

From the journal

A young elephant standing at the edge of a waterhole, facing the camera, with dry bush behind
Guides

What happens if an elephant charges your safari vehicle?

Almost always, nothing. How to tell a mock charge from a real one, what makes elephants nervous, and what to do in the vehicle.

A woodland kingfisher perched on a branch, with turquoise wings and a red and black bill
Guides

When does the woodland kingfisher arrive in the Greater Kruger?

Usually around mid-November, after the first rains. Our favourite summer bird, how to recognise its call, and the other migrants that arrive with it.

A hippo drinking at the edge of a river, with dry grass and a fallen log behind it
Guides

What do animals do when Kruger hits 41°C?

Mostly, they do less. How the animals of the Greater Kruger handle a heatwave, and what it means for your game drives.

A chef drizzling oil over a fresh tomato and mozzarella salad
Guides

Can you keep halal on safari in South Africa?

Yes, with planning. How halal works at South African safari lodges, from certified meat to prayer times on game drives.

Emery Hassall of Madikwe Safari Lodge, The People Part episode one
Voices

Madikwe or Kruger? Emery Hassall explains

Madikwe isn't a smaller Kruger. Emery Hassall of Madikwe Safari Lodge explains why it works best alongside one.

A stack of light caramel fudge squares on baking paper on a wooden table
Guides

Amarula fudge: a taste of the Lowveld to make at home

Four ingredients, one heavy pot and a bit of patience. Here's the fudge, and the tree behind it.

Vikki Jackson with binoculars on Serondella's deck, elephants at the waterhole behind her
Stories

Serondella Safari Lodge: our review

Four suites beside a Thornybush waterhole that rarely sits still. We have stayed twice, and it keeps earning its place on our shortlist.

A wooden sundowner table set up in the bush with gin bottles, glasses, ice buckets and wine, open grassland behind
Guides

Christmas on safari in South Africa: is it too late to book?

Christmas in the bush is hot and green, with baby animals everywhere. Here is what the festive season is really like, and how to find space at this stage.

A glass of white wine and an ice bucket on a dark wooden table on the deck at Kapama Karula, with green bush beyond the railing
Guides

Michelin Keys on safari: what they tell you, and what they don't

A Michelin Key tells you a lodge is a remarkable place to stay. It can't tell you how good the safari will be. Here is how to use one.

Snow-capped Kilimanjaro rising above a band of cloud, with acacia trees and green plains in the foreground
Guides

BA's new Tanzania flights: how to build a safari and Zanzibar trip that flows

Fly into the safari, fly home from the beach. How to use BA's new Tanzania route without spending half your holiday in transit.

How to read a safari quote: what all-inclusive really covers
Guides

How to read a safari quote: what all-inclusive really covers

Two quotes for the same week can sit a long way apart and both be honest. Here is what each line covers, what all-inclusive really means, and where the differences hide.

Sian Loehrer smiling with a laptop, sitting cross-legged on a covered outdoor daybed at Lion Sands Ivory Lodge, with green bush behind her
Guides

Safari specialist or big operator: who should plan your safari?

A fair look at when a large safari operator is the better call, when a small specialist is, when to book direct, and what to ask any of them before you pay.

The entrance to Kruger National Park at Crocodile Bridge Gate, with a stone sign showing gate times between two green gates
Guides

Kruger park fees are going up: what it means for your safari quote

New Kruger fees start on 1 November. Here is who actually pays them, and why most Greater Kruger guests pay a reserve levy instead.

A rainbow arcs over green bush and tall trees after rain, with agave leaves in the foreground
Guides

Greater Kruger in summer: is a hot, dry season still worth it?

A hotter, drier summer is on the cards. Here is what that means for your days in the bush, from people who live here.

Two men holding enamel mugs on a grassy hillside in the bush, with low hills behind
Guides

Gay travel in South Africa: an honest safari and city guide

Cape Town, Johannesburg and the bush: an honest guide for gay and lesbian couples planning South Africa.

Wildebeest herd pouring down a riverbank and crossing the water
Guides

Where the herds are: the Great Migration month by month

The migration moves all year. Here is where the herds tend to be in each season, and how we plan a trip around them.

Four walkers in caps stopping for a photo on a guided bush walk, with hillside vegetation behind them
Guides

Walking safari: why you see Africa differently on foot

You cover less ground on foot, and somehow you see much more.

A leopard resting in the fork of a tree, lit by a spotlight on a night drive
Guides

Planning your first safari? Start with the people who can hear the hyenas

What we would tell you about your first safari if you sat down at our kitchen table. There is usually gin.

Two women sitting in conversation at a table on a thatched lodge deck
Voices

What we would tell a young woman starting out in safari travel

Both of us came out of corporate, one of us with travel experience already. This is the advice we give when a young woman writes and asks how to build a career in luxury safari travel.

Two women sitting in the back rows of an open safari vehicle on an afternoon game drive
Guides

Is a safari safe for gay and lesbian couples?

An honest, country-by-country answer for same-sex couples planning a safari.

Two mokoros in a channel in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
Guides

Botswana has water again. Here is what that means for your safari.

Botswana is having a stronger water year. Here is what that changes, and why the right lodge and the right week still matter more than a brochure month.

A branded 18 On The Hill game viewer parked on high ground with bush stretching away west
Stories

18 On The Hill: our stay at a tented lodge in the Greater Kruger

We stayed at 18 On The Hill, a luxury tented lodge in the Greater Kruger. The food, the suites, a kosher kitchen and drives that never felt the same twice.

Thatched suite deck at Malewane Lodge at sunrise, with plunge pool, freestanding bath and wrought-iron chandelier overlooking the bushveld.
Stories

Royal Malewane reopens: what we remember, and what the fact sheet confirms

The original Royal Portfolio property is back after months behind scaffolding. We haven't seen it yet. Here is what we know anyway.

Vikki Jackson and Sian Loehrer, the two founders of Marula Hill, standing together on a deck above open bush
Voices

We run on solar and we have not printed since 2019

Vikki and Sian on solar power, paper, and what a small safari company can honestly claim.

An elephant bull walks through golden winter grass beside the river at Sandringham Private Game Reserve, with the tented suites of N'weti Camp on the far bank
Guides

Sandringham Private Game Reserve: should you go early, or wait?

Greater Kruger's newest reserve opens in August 2026. Our honest take on who should book Sandringham early, and who should give it a few seasons.

Write to us

One of us will write back.

Replies come from Vikki or Sian. No obligation, just a conversation.

Prefer to write to us directly? sian@marulahill.com · WhatsApp +27 82 459 0648